Saturday, January 22, 2011

Healthy food tip and recipe- Today's Recipe

 If you don't know what to have for dinner tonight ... It's great to have a salad on hand to enjoy as part of your Healthiest Way of Eating. And this one actually gets better with time; it will keep in the refrigerator for one week. It's also an excellent source of health-promoting health vitamin A; one serving provides 305% of the daily value for this important nutrient. Enjoy!




Great Antipasto Salad
Prep and Cook Time: prep time: 15 min; marinating time: 15 min
Ingredients: 2 cups carrots, turned
1-1/2 cups thickly sliced celery
1 cup fresh sliced fennel bulb
2 TBS rinsed and quartered Kalamata olives
2 TBS capers, rinsed
Dressing
1-1/2 tsp dried Italian mixed herbs
2 medium cloves garlic, pressed
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp honey
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp cracked black pepper
1-1/2TBS fresh lemon juice
extra virgin olive oil to taste

Directions: Press garlic and let sit for 5 minutes to enhance its health-promoting benefits.
Bring water to boil in steamer and add carrots and steam for 4 minutes. Add celery and fennel and steam for just 1 more minute.
Remove from heat and place in a bowl with capers and olives.
Whisk all dressing ingredients together, drizzling olive oil at end a little at a time.
Toss with vegetables and marinate for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Healthy Food Tip Why is sulfur sometimes used in the production of molasses and should I be concerned about its use?
Sulfur is often used in sugar cane processing. Sulfur dioxide can be used for a variety of reasons during the processing of sugar cane or the production of molasses. Most commonly, sulfur dioxide is used to lighten the color of the molasses or to help extend its shelf life. It may also be used to help with the processing of sugar cane when the cane has been harvested at an early stage.
I've been unable to find research studies showing direct benefits or direct health risks in connection with the sulfuring of molasses. In principle, it would make sense to me that sugar cane allowed to sun-ripen and develop on its own would make for a more natural food product than sugar cane that was harvested at an early stage. I do know that there can be a relationship in sulfur metabolism between sulfur dioxide and sulfites; that under certain circumstances sulfur dioxide can do oxidative damage to cell membranes; and that sulfur dioxide can also lower our working supplies of glutathione (a key antioxidant nutrient that contains sulfur). And since there are highly sulfite-sensitive individuals who experience asthma-like reactions to sulfites, the potential connections between sulfur dioxide excess and sulfite sensitivity is enough reason for me to raise some questions about the desirability of a food processed with the addition of sulfur dioxide.
In addition, on the environmental side, I know that sulfur dioxide is a primary component in the production of acid rain and is a pollutant of enormous concern to environmental scientists. The idea of a sugar cane processing facility releasing more sulfur dioxide into the air is not one I like from an environmental perspective.

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Tuesday, January 18, 2011

How to Grow Grapes

Growing grapes successfully depends on several things. All grapes require full sun, moderate water and some timely care. However, you will have more success if you select and plant a variety that thrives in your climate. 

There are three basic types of grapes; wine (such as Cabernet or Chardonnay), table (Thompson seedless or Red Flame) and slipskin (Concord).


 Instructions
1.    Select the type of grape you want to plant (wine, table or slipskin), then look for a variety that suits your climate. Ask your local nursery professional which variety of grape does best in your area. Some varieties prefer more or less heat and finding a variety that does well in your location is the key to successful viticulture.


   2.    Plant grapes from nursery stock or cuttings in a site located in full sun which is mandatory for good fruit production. The developing fruit requires ample heat. Vines planted in partial shade are susceptible to fungus disease.


3.    Amend the existing soil so that it is loose, fast draining and loamy. Grapes are very deep rooted, so the deeper you amend the soil, the better. Organic compost added to a depth of 24-36 inches is ideal.

4.   Provide a trellis or other type of support for the vines. Some varieties grow rampantly and will need ample support. Trellising also keeps the fruit above the surface of the soil where it is susceptible to rot. Grapes can be trained to grow along a south-facing fence or as espalier along the side of a building. Arbors and traditional grape stakes work very well to keep the fruit off the ground.


5.    Prune grape vines when they are dormant. Fruit is produced on one year old wood, on stems that have formed the previous season. One year wood has smooth bark, older wood has a shaggy appearance. Retain a basic framework and remove long runners to keep plants compact and under control.

6.    Remove long runners mid-season to keep plants under control.



Tips & Warnings


Grape vine prunings make wonderful wreaths! Weave them together while the wood is still green inside and easy to bend. It will harden as it dries.
If planted in proper conditions, loose soil and full sun, grape vines need little or no fertilizer.



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Monday, January 10, 2011

Healthy Fruit Diet for a Green and Beautiful Life

 Fruit Diet Plan
Actually, this is going to be a modified version of the standard fruit diet.  While you will still eat an abundance of fruit, we are adding fresh vegetable juice and a daily tablespoon of flax oil.  You can substitute flax oil with hemp oil or other products that combine raw oils to produce a balance of the omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids.  Your local health food store will be able to assist you, and most grocery stores are now carrying these raw oils in their refrigerated health section.  

Adding vegetable juice and a tablespoon of oil rich in essential fatty acids broadens the spectrum of nutrients you will be taking in without compromising calorie intake.  While fruits are rich in vitamins, vegetables are rich in minerals, and they both supply different forms of antioxidants and phytochemicals.  And for those of you concerned about the addition of 100 calories in oil, rest at ease—it has been shown that good oil actually helps reduce body fat.   
How Long?I am going to lay out a 30–day fruit diet plan, but this will also work for anyone who wants to undergo a shorter fruit diet.  Not everyone will be able to complete a 30–day fruit diet, especially for the first time.  You may want to set a goal that feels less daunting, like 7 or 10 days.  My suggestion is to keep your options open.  As I have said previously, the first three days are the hardest.  You may have set a goal of one week, but after going through those first three days, encounter smooth sailing and want to continue further.  It is not uncommon for people to enjoy their fast or fruit diet so much they simply stay on for the full 30 days.



 Pick Good FruitThere are cantaloupes and then there are cantaloupes.  I’m sure you have experienced the disappointment of slicing a cantaloupe in half only to find it is an unappealing color inside and is completely lacking that sweet smell that always promises delicious taste.  Depending on where you live, there are certain times of year that it can be almost impossible to find a good cantaloupe.  Remember, your fruit diet will only be as good as the fruit you’re eating, not just in nutrition but also in eating pleasure.  And eating pleasure may make the difference between whether you stay on your diet or quit out of boredom.  Spend a little more on good quality fruit, even if you have to search for a different grocery store that specializes in top-quality produce.  Also, try to eat what’s in season.   
Top Fruits to Eat During a Fruit Diet
In choosing fruit, emphasize eating low-acid fruits like melons.  If citrus fruits like oranges and grapefruit are in season, then choose the sweetest.  At the start, eating a lot of fruit may cause some diarrhea. In time, the body will grow accustomed to fruit's cleansing properties.  Fruits high in vitamin C and citric acid are powerful detoxifiers. The absence of mucus-forming foods allows the lymph glands a chance to detoxify. 



 The First Three DaysAll right, let’s get started.  For the first three days, eat as much fruit as you desire, with the addition of two tall glasses of vegetable juice with a tablespoon of good oil mixed in.  Do not limit your intake of fruit for the first three days.  Eating as much as you want will help curb the temptation to quit, which is strongest in the beginning, due to dealing with cravings and hunger.  It is better to eat more during these times than to quit, so enjoy. 
I suggest you stock up on your favorite fruits and make sure they’re pre-washed and close at hand.  If you are working, pack lots of fruit like bananas and grapes, as they are filling and satisfying.  The last thing you want to do is run out of fruit at work—that’s when you will be tempted to quit.  We have some really tasty and fun recipes you can make ahead, which provide variety and great flavor.  
 

 The Reminder of Your Fruit DietThere is beauty in simplicity, and this diet is very simple.  Forget the idea of three meals a day—it does not apply to a fruit diet. 
ü       Begin your day with a large portion of higher-calorie fruit like bananas, grapes or mangos.  This will elevate your metabolism for the whole day, sustaining good energy and fat-burning capabilities.  
 
ü       Allow you’re self to get a little hungry before having another fruit meal.  As the fruit diet continues and you grow more confident, experiment with how long you can endure the feeling of hunger before eating again.  
 
ü      On more active days, eat a greater amount of fruit.  If you have a day of leisure, then cut back.  As you get some days behind you, and food cravings are overcome, there will be a greater sensitivity to your body’s caloric need.  


 



ü       Continue to drink two tall glasses of fresh veggie juice twice a day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon or evening.
 
ü       Mix in a tablespoon of good oil to your two glasses of juice each day.
 
ü       Do not rob yourself of eating pleasure by counting calories.  All the fruit you are ingesting is low-concentrated food, light in calories and high in water and fiber, so enjoy. This is not a mathematical equation, but  is a process of getting in tune with your body in a new way, through breaking junk food cravings and emotional addictions.  
 
ü       Do not weigh yourself until the fruit diet is over.  Remember, this is not just about losing weight, but about helping you gain control over your eating.  This will be a launching pad to a whole new way of eating and living.  Quick fixes never work—if there is not permanent change, then the weight will simply come right back in a few months. 


 



ü       While on your fruit diet, take time to educate yourself on healthy nutrition.  This will keep you motivated and focused.  Find a good book and read in your spare time
So there you have it.  It’s simple: eat lots of fruit for the first three days, and then start allowing your body to get hungry between small meals.  You may find yourself eating fruit 6-8 times a day, which is fine. 
Finally, do not let the simplicity of this diet fool you.  What is going on under your skin is far from simple.  A wonderful transformation is occurring on a cellular level, as you flood your trillions of living cells with healing, cleansing nutrients.  Your cells will love you!


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Thursday, January 6, 2011

How to Grow Turmeric Plant- With Health tips

 Turmeric is derived from the rhizome portion of the plant which appears similar to the more commonly seen ginger rhizome seen in your grocery store. The best turmeric flavor comes only from fresh rhizomes with the flavor dimension rapidly declining during the drying process due to evaporation of the essential oils. When turmeric is ground is also becomes bitter, preventing you from experiencing the true flavor potential it posses when you buy it dried from the supermarket. One solution is to grow turmeric in your own garden or greenhouse.

Turmeric grows well only in moist, hot climates. You can probably grow turmeric successfully outdoors if you live in the Sun Belt region as long you plant it where it will receive the most direct heat from the sun. If you live in a less hospitable environment, you can grow turmeric in a greenhouse although they may not achieve the same stature as the plants grown outdoors in hot, humid climates.

Growing turmeric can be as simple as purchasing the fresh roots. You may be able to purchase fresh roots from a local Asian market. If not, turmeric plants can be ordered online or from some local nurseries. If you’ll be using fresh turmeric roots, select ones that have fat fingers since you’ll be planting the fingers in the soil to start your turmeric plant.

Once you have your fresh roots, remove the fingers and plant them in well drained, fertile soil in direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist but not wet enough to allow water stagnation. Watch for turmeric shoots to appear in about two months. You can also grow turmeric in a greenhouse by planting the roots in pots with well drained potting soil. Make sure the soil remains moist but don’t over water so that water pooling can occur. You can also grow turmeric outdoors during the warm months of the year and bring them indoors when the weather turns cold. During the growing season, feed the plants with a general purpose fertilizer.

The rhizomes are usually harvested eight to ten months after planting when the leaves and stems of the plant become dry. To do this, carefully dig out the plants after removing the leaves. Lift out the turmeric clumps and manually remove the dirt. They can then be soaked in water to remove any additional soiling and dried naturally. The clumps should be stored in a cool place without excess moisture. Stored clumps can be replanted in the spring.

 Growing turmeric can be a great way to enjoy the considerable health benefits this herb offers. Plus, you’ll have the pleasure of knowing you cultivated it yourself.

By now you’re probably aware of the beneficial properties of turmeric. It’s also an important spice used in the preparation of a variety of fragrant and delicious Indian dishes. Although turmeric can be found in its dried form at your local supermarket, there are advantages to growing turmeric on your own.





Health Benefits of Turmeric

Turmeric is one of nature's most powerful healers. The active ingredient in turmeric is curcumin. Tumeric has been used for over 2500 years in India, where it was most likely first used as a dye.
The medicinal properties of this spice have been slowly revealing themselves over the centuries. Long known for its anti-inflammatory properties, recent research has revealed that turmeric is a natural wonder, proving beneficial in the treatment of many different health conditions from cancer to Alzheimer's disease.

Here are 20 reasons to add turmeric to your diet:
1. It is a natural antiseptic and antibacterial agent, useful in disinfecting cuts and burns.
2. When combined with cauliflower, it has shown to prevent prostate cancer and stop the growth of existing prostate cancer.
3. Prevented breast cancer from spreading to the lungs in mice.




4. May prevent melanoma and cause existing melanoma cells to commit suicide.
5. Reduces the risk of childhood leukemia.
6. Is a natural liver detoxifier.
7. May prevent and slow the progression of Alzheimer's disease by removing amyloyd plaque buildup in the brain.
8. May prevent metastases from occurring in many different forms of cancer.



9. It is a potent natural anti-inflammatory that works as well as many anti-inflammatory drugs but without the side effects.
10. Has shown promise in slowing the progression of multiple sclerosis in mice.
11. Is a natural painkiller and cox-2 inhibitor.
12. May aid in fat metabolism and help in weight management.


13. Has long been used in Chinese medicine as a treatment for depression.
14. Because of its anti-inflammatory properties, it is a natural treatment for arthritis and rheumatoid arthritis.
15. Boosts the effects of chemo drug paclitaxel and reduces its side effects.
16. Promising studies are underway on the effects of turmeric on pancreatic cancer. 



17. Studies are ongoing in the positive effects of turmeric on multiple myeloma.
18. Has been shown to stop the growth of new blood vessels in tumors.
19. Speeds up wound healing and assists in remodeling of damaged skin.
20. May help in the treatment of psoriasis and other inflammatory skin conditions.




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Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Planting a pineapple- The fruit who is strong out and Sweet and Soft inside

 
Pineapple
Pineapple is one of the world's most unique and exotic tropical fruits, yet it is possible to grow it in a temperate zone under controlled conditions. Although you may not be able to grow as large a plant as is grown on a plantation in Hawaii, the following information should permit you to grow a healthy, attractive pineapple for your home.

Planting a pineapple

Pineapple is grown from planting material supplied by the plant itself. Use the crown (the leafy top) of the fruit you purchased at your grocery store. Later, your plant will produce other planting material.
Preparing a crown
Remove the crown from your pineapple by twisting or cutting it off. Any adhering flesh should be trimmed off its base, or it might rot after planting. After trimming, cut the bottom of the crown (its stem) until you see root buds, which are small round structures visible around the perimeter of the stem base. Remove as little tissue as possible to avoid cutting into young stem tissue. To make planting easier, you can also strip off some of the lower leaves, exposing up to about three-fourths of an inch of the base of the crown. The small brown-colored bumps below the leaf scars are root primordia (the beginnings of roots) and there may even be a few short roots at the base if the crown.
 After trimming and stripping, place the crown upside down in a dry, shaded place for about a week (5 to 7 days) before planting. This will permit the cut end and the leaf scars to heal and prevent rot.


Planting
The easiest way to grow a pineapple is in soil. Use a good light garden soil, mixing in up to 30 per cent well-composted organic matter. A commercial potting soil will also work well and will assure a disease-free potting medium.
 Start your pineapple in an 8-inch porous red clay pot. Later, when it outgrows this, transplant it to a 12-inch pot, the largest size you will need.  Plastic posts can also be used, but extra care needs to be taken to be sure adequate drainage is provided and plants are not over watered.
Be sure there is good drainage since pineapples do not like "wet feet." Provide drainage by placing a curved piece of broken pot over the hole in the bottom of the pot. Over this, add about a half an inch (1 centimeter) of coarse qravel. Then add your soil.
Tamp the soil firmly around the base of the crown at planting. Avoid getting soil into the central leaves of the crown. It is possible to start, and even grow your pineapple in water, but nutrients -- which can be purchased at a gardening store -- must be added. Ask for a hydroponic fertilizer, a soluble mix that contains all of the essential plant nutrients, and follow directions for shrubs.

Feeding

Fertilize at planting and every two or three months thereafter with a good household plant food. If using a solid plant food, scatter it on the surface of the soil and wash it in by watering.
A liquid (foliar spray) fertilizer can also be used. Pour the solution into the base of the leaves and on the surface of the soil. Take special care not to pour the solution into the center of the plant as the young leaves may be injured.  Follow directions under "small shrubs" given on the label of the products you use.




Watering
The pineapple plant is miserly with water, requiring only about 20 inches of natural rainfall per year, if well distributed. You need only wet the soil once a week, and when plants are indoors, it is best to apply all the water to the soil.

Light and temperature

Pineapple is a tropical plant and frost or freezing temperatures will kill it. If you live in a temperate climate, your pineapple must divide its time between your house and your porch or garden.
During summer, set your plant on a sunny porch or bury the pot in your garden. Do not take your plant out of the house until all danger of frost is past. When you first remove your plant from your house, keep it in a semi-shaded spot for several days to prevent sunburn.
During cold months, keep your plant in the house.  Bring it in early in the fall.  Place it near a window or sliding-glass door for maximum sunlight.  At night, move it away from the window to prevent freezing.  If the room is warm enough for you to be comfortable, the pineapple will be at the right temperature.
You can also grow your plant indoors, for example in a basement, by using "Plant-Gro" fluorescent light tubes  This light can also be helpful if your windows do not let enough sunshine into the room where you are keepinq your plant.  You should keep the light on for between 12 and 14 hours per day.  When the plant gets large enough to bear a fruit (see Flowering and Fruiting below), you should reduce the daylength to 10 to 11 hours until the inflorescence appears in the center of the plant.  You can then return to longer days.




Pests and diseases
As house plants, your pineapple will be subject to a minimum of pests and diseases if qiven proper care.  The pests most likely to attack your plant are mealybugs, scale and mites.  All can be removed by washing the leaves with soapy water, rinsing after with clear water. Or, spray with an insecticide.  Be sure to follow the directions on the label when using insecticides.
The only disease you will likely encounter will be heart rot caused by fungi.  In heart rot, the central leaves turn black and are easily pulled out of the plant.  When heart rot occurs, the plant can sometimes be saved by pouring a fungicide into the heart (center) of the plant.  If this stops the infection, a side shoot will start growing.  This shoot will then become your plant and will eventually flower and form a fruit.  Or you can remove it and begin a new plant (see "Other planting material").
For good insecticides and fungicides, talk to your nurseryman or visit your local garden store.




Flowering and fruiting
Although the pineapple plant is attractive in itself, most growers want their plants to flower and fruit.  In Hawaii, a crown takes about 20 months to produce a ripe fruit.  It may take your plant that long, or longer.
When your plant is  at least 24 inches (60 to 70 centimeters) tall and 12 to 14 months old, an inflorescence bud will begin to form in the center of the leaves.  You will not be able to see the developing fruit until about two months later when a bright red cone emerges.  Flower development in Hawaii typically occurs in late December or January when the days are short (about 10.5 hours) and the nights are cool (55 to 65 F; about 13 to 18 C).
Later, flowers -- light blue in color -open row by row over a period of about two weeks, starting from the bottom.  When the petals of the last flower have dried, the fruit begins to develop.  If your pineapple plant is at least 24 inches tall and has not flowered by the time it is 20 to 24 months old, you can "force" it with an inexpensive chemical.

Forcing your plant

To force your plant, place a small lump of calcium carbide about the size of your little fingernail in the center of your plant and pour a quarter cup of water over it.  This will release acetylene gas which will force your plant to flower.  To improve your chances of success, it is best to treat your plant in the evening after the sun goes down and temperatures are cooler. (Calcium carbide may be obtainable at a welding shop, garden store, pharmacy or toy store.)
You can also 'force' a plant by enclosing it completely in a polyethylene bag together with two ripe apples for one week. The ethylene gas released from the ripe apples will do the trick.




Harvesting your pineapple
When your fruit is about six months old, about four months after flowering has occurred, changes begin to occur. The color of the shell changes from green to rich gold. The color change of the shell occurs first at the bottom of the fruit and moves upwards. During this change, the fruit becomes sweeter and the color of the flesh changes from white to yellow. The fruit will weigh from two to four pounds.
When the fruit is golden half way up it can be picked and eaten. You can wait longer if you wish.
 

Producing a second or ratoon fruit

Either during or after the fruit on the mother plant has ripened, one or more shoots, they are called suckers by pineapple growers,  will grow from the mother-plant stem.  If you want your original plant to produce another fruit, leave one or at most two of the shoots on the plant to produce a second or ratoon fruit.  Excess shoots can be cut off and potted (See Other planting material).  Continue to feed and water your plant as you did when it was first planted.  In Hawaii, it takes about one additional year to produce a first ratoon fruit.  If the plant remains healthy, it may even be possible to produce a third crop, called a second ratoon.


Other planting material
After the fruit is picked, branches on the main stem of the plant -- called shoots -- and sometimes on the stem just below the fruit -- called slips --can be removed and used for planting material.  After these branches are about 12 inches long, you can cut or break them off close to the stem.  Many of the varieties now being grown produce few or no slips, so do not be concerned if your plant doesn't produce slips.
Prepare and grow your slips and shoots in the same manner you did your crown.  In the case of slips, there may be a small knob at their base. This should be cut off.  Because they are larger, slips and shoots will produce a fruit in less time than to takes for a crown.  It is best to use plant size as a guide in determining the best time to force flowering.  Slips and shoots grow most rapidly while attached to the mother plant, so it is best to let them grow for several months after the fruit is removed.


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